Hello! I am very happy to be back writing! As I felt these last few months of school was mostly making and no writing at all because I had no time for it and I didn’t have a true writing class. Anyways moving along. Today I am going to share with you my fall/winter wardrobe (aka my projects from my self-directed surface design class)! I hope you enjoy!
Back in September I did a post on what garments I had planned to make for a class that would serve as my fall/winter wardrobe. There were three shirts and a jacket planned and I am here to share the jacket and one of the shirts with you today. All the garments are Edwardian inspired (other than one shirt which was rococo inspired) but with my own modern twist on them to make them more practical for my own day-to-day wearing.
I’ll start with the jacket as it is probably my favourite item I made. I think mostly because I’ve been ogling these Edwardian jackets for a long time and I finally got/made one! Also I’ve been meaning to replace my fall/spring jacket for about two years now. I bought the pattern for this coat off of the Wearing History website and it was the 1900’s Jacket Pattern. This was my first e-pattern and I wouldn’t say it was too hard to navigate how to put together overall. It just took a lot of paper.But I will say that the instructions for the coat were not helpful and I would advise you to follow instructions for a similar coat or just be familiar with how a coat is normally assembled.
I didn’t have an issue with any of the pattern pieces, except that there is no separate front lining piece from the outer side front pieces. This is only an issue with the facing piece that forms the collar as that takes up space that isn’t accounted for in the lining making it too big for the shell of the coat. I found a way to hide it but I am making notes for next time (as I think I will be making a winter version of this coat in the future). Just a warning for the pattern.
The “features” I opted for was the cuffs, a notched sailor collar, the two lower patch pockets, and the two buttons on the belt using bound button holes (my first time making them) for those wondering. I also shorten the sleeves to a 3/4 length (taking off about 6 inches from the pattern piece) and brought in the sides by about 1.5 inches for my own personal adjustments.
For dyeing I used black bean dye for the collar and cuffs. Logwood with iron for the main body, and a shibori bundle dye for the lining.
After the coat I made my Lacroix inspired shirt. By categorizing this shirt as Edwardian inspired I am loosely labeling it as that, though I do think the shirt is obviously vintage inspired.
I drafted the pattern for this shirt. Most of it is similar to my other patterns but I made the belt thinner (I’ve started playing with lengths and thicknesses a bit just to see what happens, I’m not sure if it is as successful as I want it to be) and it was my first time making and using bias tape, it was used for the twisted bias binding neckline (another first), which was the main learning and challenge of the shirt. It was also my first time adding sashes. It was a bit of a challenge as I added them into the zipper so they weren’t separate from the shirt.
For me I think the dyeing was more of my focus. I used many different dyes and many different dye techniques. The main colour is fuchsia and I used a bit of a mix of lac and cochineal. But under all that colour there was the mystical avocado dye for the paler colour in the various gradients and scrunch dyeing that I did. Then for the navy blue sash and belt I used logwood with iron once again ( I think I will have to use this more often), and yarrow for the gold.
That is all for this post, until next time with part two!